Stitches and Seams

Hand Stitches

Length of thread: It is more convenient to define the length of the thread according to the sleeve length. The length is determined from the middle of the chest to the end of the stretched arm. It facilitates the sewing by hand.

Making a knot: Make knot at the end of the thread. For this purpose, place the thread around the index finger, roll the thread downwards and pull it.

Tacking stitch: The tacking stitch has two purposes: to connect two parts and to prepare for sewing with the machine. The tacking stitch may be made on the marked seam to verify the accuracy on fit of the clothing during the fitting. It is done doing even, easy straight stitches.

Backstitch: The whole skirt can be sewn manually by means of the backstitch. No sewing machine is necessary. (The stitch in the photo is enlarged.)

Securing the seam (depending on quality of fabric)

Blind hem stitch: The blind stitch is used for thin, silk-like fabrics. The seam is folded in circa 1cm. Make a loop every third/fourth stitch or a repeat a stitch. The stitch should not be visible on the right side (face side).

Cross-stitch: The cross-stitch can be used with thick wool fabric or felt-like fabrics. As a general rule, the cross-stitch is done from left to right, whereas all other stitches are sewn from right to left.

Machine Stitches (depending on machine)

  • Straight stitch (lockstitch)
  • Zig-zag stitch

The settings can be read in the respective working instructions of the sewing machine.

 

The selvedge edges can be fixed via the zig-zag stitch with the machine, manually or by hemming with the lining or bias tape.

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